Indiana Beer Week Recap - Make It Local: Craft Beer and Food

I moved here in January 2001 and for a long time, I felt like an outsider. People called themselves "Hoosiers" proudly. Indianapolis felt awkward. I referred to the city as "Naptown" and "Indianoplace" and did not consider them terms of endearment.
Lately, though, when I talk about the city, and specifically about local breweries and restaurants, I find myself rooting for a place that has become home. We are lucky to have access to so many talented people and opportunities. I want people to like it here and enjoy the great things that Indianapolis has to offer. When guests visit from out of town, there is a long list of places to show them - many of which are great places to eat and drink. When someone is quick to dismiss the city, I find myself listing 10 things that are great about it.
This whole notion of taking pride in the city was only made stronger at the Make it Local: Craft Beer and Food dinner held at Chef JJ's Backyard on Friday, July 16th. Many thanks to Sun King Brewery and Brugge Brasserie for leading the effort to make this dinner happen, and equally many thanks to Staraya at Chef JJ's for putting this event together.

Beer and Social hour:
The opening hour of the event was a chance for guests to mingle and sample beer from Brugge, Sun King, and Lafayette Brewing Co. Also available for sampling were three different kinds of flatbread prepared by Tyler Hareld from Napolese.

The flatbread and beer pairings:

• Caramelized Onions with Sottocenere, paired with Lafayette Brewing Co. Star City Lager
• Braised Pork Belly, paired with LBC Tippecanoe Common
• Braised Short Ribs with White Cheddar, paired with LBC Black Angus Oatmeal Stout

The flatbreads were a delicious start to the evening, but I didn't get to try them as pairings because I was up and around being, well, social.

Appetizer course:

As we settled into our seats, Ted Miller from Brugge and Chris Eley from Goose the Market spoke a little bit about their offerings. I've had terrine before (pig instead of duck) and liked it. I've tried Brugge Spider before (and REALLY liked it). This pairing had to be pretty good, right?

Appetizer course:

Torchon with macerated Spider Figs, Duck Terrine, Chocolate, Sea Salt, Blackberry Moustarda paired with Brugge Spider

Awesome doesn't even BEGIN to describe this pairing. I swear, the moment I washed down a bite of that torchon with the Spider, the sun shone a little brighter. I am fairly certain I heard birds singing a little bit louder. I think I may have looked at Ted at some point and said "holy shit". The torchon had the consistency of custard which played really nicely with the sourness of the Spider, as did the sweetness of the figs. The terrine was perfectly delicious. As I ate and drank this course, I couldn't (and still can't) find the proper words to describe how much I thought this pairing was perfectly complementary. It occurred to me that I was going to be in trouble if this was a theme for the evening. This pairing alone is worth the price of admission in my opinion.

I was sad to see the last pairing go, but was intrigued by what was coming next. a trio of salads prepared by Tyler Herald from Napolese and New Albanian Oaktimus. The beer is Hoptimus, a favorite of mine, aged with oak chips.

Salad:

Sun King Naptown Brown marinated Shitake Mushrooms, Summer Sweet Corn and Barley Salad

Grilled Potato Salad with a Roasted Garlic and Sun King XX Rye IPA Aioli

Roasted Beet Salad with a Honey Orange Grapefruit Jungle Vinaigrette

All of the salads were truly wonderful and paired with the beer in their own unique way. The beer's oak flavor was subdued by the beets, leaving a sweet vanilla flavor. The oak flavor played up the candied walnuts, making them extremely flavorful.

The potatoes were great. If I was blindfolded, I might have said that the potatoes could have been a really nice piece of tender steak. The aioli and the rye from the IPA played really well with the oak in the Oaktimus.

My favorite salad pairing was the corn and barley salad. The peppery flavor in the salad really accentuated the hops and oak. It balanced the salad so well you couldn't tell where it ended and the beer began.

Next up was the always entertaining Eli Anderson from H2O and Kevin Mattalucci from Broad Ripple Brewpub.

Seafood:

Halibut sous vide in BRBP ESB served along side Duel Citizenship chips paired with BRBP Kolsch

Fish and beer may seem like an easy pairing, but if the beer doesn't match the delicateness of the fish, the pairing may end up off balance or worse, causing the flavors to cancel each other out and disappear.

The Kolsch that was paired with Eli's fish and chips worked great, I'm happy to say. Both the fish and the beer had a sweet elements that played off each other, allowing for the enjoyment of both. The Kolsch was really bright, the flavors crawled right up the back of my throat into my nose, like a really refreshing soda.

Mike and I must have really been enjoying the food and talking about it because about this time in the evening we were finding that I was falling behind on the courses. I'm a slow eater to begin with, and especially slow when I am enjoying my food. It is good they don't move at my pace or we'd be there all night!

Clay Robinson from Sun King and Chef JJ stepped up to provide the penultimate course of the evening.

It's no secret, I am a huge fan of Chef JJ's food, especially when it is paired with Sun King. Clay and JJ have gotten really good at pairing food and beer, finding creative ways to please the palates of those lucky enough to get to try it.

Pork:

Das Buffalo Pork Tenderloin with Westy Glaze and Summer Veggies paired with Cream Dream III: The Search for Hops

The CDIII really fills in where the pork ends. Like icing on a cake, it elevates the flavors and provides an extra zing to the food. CDIII contains a blend of Simcoe, Centennial, and my new favorite hop variety, Citra. Citra and Centennial impart citrus and tropical flavors, which work nicely with the grapefruit flavors in Simcoe. The combination of all of these flavors in the beer work with the spicy veggies. Another home run from Chef JJ and Clay.

As the sun started to fade, it was time for dessert. The wonderful Chef Jenna Gatchell from Chef JJ's and Andrew Mason from 3 Floyds worked together to come up with something pretty wonderful.

Dessert:

Dark Lord Tiramisu paired with 3 Floyds Schwarzbier

The description of the dessert is this: Layers of lady fingers, soaked in Three Floyds Dark Lord, surrounding a bourbon, vanilla, and mascarpone filling, topped with a goose fat ganache.
Do I really have to go on?
I hope there are more opportunities like this in the future for people to explore the talents of these and other breweries and chefs in the state. I hope everyone who was there enjoyed it as much as I did and I hope those that were not able to go are interested in checking out some of these breweries and restaurants if they've never been. Thanks Indiana; it has never felt so good to be home.
Restaurants:
Tyler Herald - NapoleseChristopher Eley - Goose the MarketEli Anderson - H2O SushiJJ Boston - Chef JJ's Back YardJenna Gatchell - Chef JJ's Back Yard
Breweries:
Lafayette Brewing Co.Brugge BrasserieNew Albanian Brewing Co.Broad Ripple Brew PubSun King BreweryThree Floyds Brewery

Scenes From a Beer Dinner: Nøgne Ø at Recess

Where: Recess, 4907 N. College, Indianapolis

When: 04/13/10 (Last evening)


Who: Chef Greg Hardesty and Scott Larrick of Nøgne Ø


What: Five courses paired with beer from Norwegian Brewery Nøgne Ø






Why: With the Craft Brewer's Conference in Chicago, the folks at Nøgne Ø thought it might make sense for Mr. Larrick to pay a visit to the fine folks of Indianapolis as well. Perhaps best known for their darker beers, the dinner featured beer from across the entire spectrum of Nøgne Ø's lineup. The beer was masterfully paired by the expert hands of Recess's kitchen staff.

Stay tuned, as Nøgne Ø has also just begun brewing sake in addition to their beer lineup, and as a result there are some very interesting cross-spirit beer styles on the horizon.

Brewers Dinner - Sun King GABF Preview party with Chef JJ

The change from summer to fall is always a special time of year for beer fans, as we move away from lighter offerings into darker and heartier winter styles. It's also a special time of year for brewers, as Denver's Great American Beer Festival (GABF) draws attention to the ever-expanding world that is craft beer. Last week, we visited Chef JJ's Backyard for a beer dinner with Clay and Michael from Sun King, as they shared some beer from their lineup for a pre-GABF beer dinner.


This was our first visit to this cozy space and we were surprised by the spectacular view from the patio out back. We took our spot and enjoyed the weather and a view of the White River just beyond the edge of the property.


Appetizer: Sunlight Cream Ale served along side a grilled baguette with a blood orange infused olive oil.

Why it Worked: The citrus elements in the Cream Ale are enhanced by the citrus in the olive oil and vice versa. Neither food nor drink overpowered one another, which is exactly how a food/beer pairing should be, in my opinion. I am happy to report that this fact was a recurring theme throughout the evening.


First course: Firefly Wheat paired with wild greens, smoked triple brie, and peach vinaigrette

Why it Worked: Often a creamy cheese like brie has the tendency to leave the tongue coated with a cheesy film. This St. Andre Triple brie did just that with a sweet peach flavor and texture that made me think of ice cream. The malty Firefly Wheat cut right through that film to make the pairing a light and refreshing first course.



Second course: Bitter Druid ESB paired with grilled monkfish and citrus risotto

Why it Worked: The creamy risotto had a light, smoky flavor with a citrus back that balanced the rich, malty bitterness of the ESB. The creaminess of the monkfish also lent itself well to the richness of the ESB.


Third Course: Osiris Pale Ale paired with a spiced rubbed Indiana pork tenderloin along side locally grown vegetables drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar

Why it Worked: The savory tenderloin balances the super-hoppy Pale Ale, while the naturally sweet grilled vegetables enhance that citrusy hop flavor. The tenderloin was spiced perfectly, allowing the beer to shine without having to rely on it to reduce heat.


Fourth course: Imperial IPA (Alpha King entry) served with a slow cooked prime rib, roasted fingerling potatoes, fresh horseradish, and smoked creamy sauce

Why it Worked: Both beer and food have big flavors, so one is not dominant over the other. The nose of the IPA is of orange rinds and rye and has a floral, citrus flavor (think tons of Centennial hops). This big flavor complements the spicy horseradish sauce that accompanies the cherrywood-smoked, maple-rubbed ribeye. Add an egg, and this would be the best breakfast ever.


Fifth Course: Tipping Point Belgian Strong Ale paired with a double chocolate bread pudding topped with a Rainier cherry reduction

The Beer: Why it Worked: The Tipping Point is reminiscent of a beer from Unibroue. It has a cherry, yeast, and fruit rind nose with a punchy, Belgian flavor. The double chocolate bread pudding is full of cinnamon, chocolate, and wine. There was something remarkable about this pairing, a rollercoaster of sensations. The dessert was comforting, lulling you to a peaceful state, then you take a drink a you are suddenly awake, exploring how the Rainier cherry reduction mixes with the cherry flavor in the beer, the chocolate sauce, and the bread pudding.

* * * * *
If this is the sort of thing that looks good to you, you can check out both Chef JJ's Backyard (1040 Broad Ripple Ave. - behind the McDonald's/Applebee's and just east of Brugge Brasserie in the former hair salon space) and Sun King's latest - Tipping Point Belgian Strong Ale - at a 6:30 tapping Wednesday, 09/23/09 at 6:30p.m. No reservations are required, and Chef JJ will be grilling snacks to compliment the beers.

Two things about Zing!

Last August, Knight Chris introduced us to Zing!, a small plates restaurant and bar at the corner of Indiana Avenue and West Street in downtown Indianapolis. There are two things we wanted to bring to your attention.



First, their beer menu. According to their website, it includes:

Draft beer:
Stella Artois 4.75
Guinness 5.75
Blue Moon 4.75
Sam Adam’s Seasonal 5.00
Bass 4.75
Bell’s Seasonal 4.75
Three Floyds Alpha King (Indiana) 5.00
Brugge White (Indiana) 5.00

beer flights
[ Draft Only • Three 5oz. portions ]
choose any three 8.00

Bottled beer:
Barley Island Barfly IPA (Indiana) 4.75
Three Floyds Gumballhead Wheat Ale (Indiana) 5.00
Three Floyds Robert the Bruce Scottish Ale (Indiana) 4.75
Upland Wheat (Indiana) 4.50
Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA 4.75
Goose Island Honker’s Ale 4.75
Victory Prima Pils 4.75
Flying Dog Gonzo Porter 5.00
Shiner Bock 4.75
Leinenkugel Sunset Wheat 3.75
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale 4.50
Killian’s Irish Red 3.75
Sam Adam’s Lager 3.75
Delirium Tremens Belgian Strong Ale 9.00
Affligem Blond 6.00
Linderman’s Framboise 10.00
Piraat Belgium Strong Ale 10.5% 8.00

There are other domestic and import beers available. Of particular interest, on Tuesdays (like today) they have a special: Hoosier Beer Night. All Hoosier Beers are $3. Sounds like a good time for Hoosier Beer Geek to visit. Maybe around 8:30pm tonight.

Secondly, on April 26th, at 6pm, Zing! will be hosting a seven course beer dinner. The cost is $30. RSVP at 317.636.7775, or at zingrestaurant.com. This can either be a great finish to a great beer weekend (Dark Lord Day is that weekend) or the highlight for those without Golden Tickets. Either way, food and beer equals fun. The menu submitted to us is below and is subject to change:

Course 1
Gaspacho with avocado creme fraiche and grilled goat cheese crostini soup
Bell's Oberon

Course 2
Grilled Vegetable salad with cappacolla, genoa salami, and provolone
Three Floyd's Gumballhead

Course 3
Asian meatballs with glass noodles and soy lime drizzle
Brugge White

Course 4
House made crab cakes with spicy remoulade
Three Floyd's Alpha King

Course 5
Chorizo stuffed dates wrapped in bacon and simmered in a sweet pepper tomato sauce
Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA

Course 6
Cappacolla wrapped pork tenderloin pepper crusted and served with savory bread pudding and mustard sauce
Piraat Belgian Tripel IPA

Course 7
Chocolate pots de creme topped with fresh whipped cream and candied ginger
Flying Dog Gonzo Porter