Beer Diary #16 - Jim | Red Penguins Keep Louisville Weird

Date: 19 March 2010
Location: 21c Museum Hotel
Main Street
Louisville, Kentucky

Terroir: The notion that a place injects a unique character into the things that are produced and grown there. Louisville embodies the concept of terroir because Louisville is a unique place, more than unique if that's possible. Its people, its neighborhoods, its culture--all have this incomparable organic character that seems to spring from the very banks of the Ohio River.

Perhaps this is so because Louisville defies preconceptions and expectations. The motto of Louisville's independent business association is "Keep Louisville Weird." If you spend enough time in the city, you'll see that its residents take this motto seriously because Louisville is weird--the best kind of weird. Amble along Bardstown Road or up Frankfort Avenue and drink in the pleasant, earthy weirdness.

One facet of Louisville's uniqueness is downtown's 21c Museum Hotel. According to a 2009 readers' poll in Condé Nast Traveler, the 21c is the #1 hotel in the U.S. and the #6 hotel in the world. It's not surprising to see why the magazine's readers felt this way; the 21c is a one-of-a-kind institution. In addition to its guest rooms, the hotel contains a stunning museum (open 24 hours a day) with a collection of 21st Century art. It also houses a world-class restaurant called Proof on Main. Contemporary art can be seen in every area of the building. A deer's head in a bondage mask adorns the wall in Proof on Main's entry area. And the red penguins are ubiquitous. These 21c mascots stand guard on the hotel's rooftop, at the lobby door, in the hallways, in the guest rooms, in the rooms of the museum, and, in miniature form, on the lapels of the hotel's staff.


Photo by jbcurio


Photo by Daquella Manera
Proof on Main's bar has a specialty: bourbon, that most elite expression of Kentucky's terroir. Hotel guests receive a complementary shot of bourbon from Proof on Main, and there are over 50 bourbons to choose from. Bourbon means bourbon barrels, and bourbon barrels mean bourbon barrel-aged beer. In this case, the beer in question is BBC Jefferson's Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout. This is a beer of which the KOTBR are quite fond. It is currently the number three beer on our list of beers reviewed. It is also on the beer list at Proof on Main among other excellent selections such as Founders Red's Rye and Bell's Winter White. But these other selections are not expressions of Kentucky's terroir. BBC Bourbon Barrel Stout is; it's this beer that I want, and it's what I have.

The experience is as I remember from our roundtable in which we reviewed the beer: baked brown sugar, black coffee, a dash of vanilla, and a bit of bourbon, which is lightly folded into the mix, hanging there in the background, unveiling itself gently.

Date: 20 March 2010
Location: Cumberland Brewery
The Highlands
Louisville, Kentucky

While Kentucky's terroir might find its highest expression in bourbon, Louisville's terroir is well expressed by the Highlands. In terms of Indianapolis analogues, the Highlands are Irvington, Broad Ripple, Mass Ave, and Fountain Square combined into one district. It's a meandering strip of independent shops, restaurants, and bars that hasn't been overrun by complete gentrification.

In the middle of the Highlands sits Cumberland Brews, a small but integral part of Louisville's beer culture. It is my destination while my wife goes in search of tchotchkes at nearby shops. Again, in terms of Indianapolis analogues, Cumberland Brews is the Broad Ripple Brewpub, but with a Deadhead vibe on top of the English country pub atmosphere. In the afternoon light, the pub is dim, but comfortably so. The tap handles are made of art glass. Three small fermentation vessels are perched behind the bar. Inhabiting one vessel is a beer called "Dorkmonster." It's not on tap yet, but its name makes me wish that it were.

The flagship beers are mostly English style ales, a Nitro Porter and a Pale Ale among them. There are also a Cream Ale and an Irish Dry Stout in honor of St. Patrick's Day. I order an imperial pint of the Nitro Porter to begin. Creamy, malty, and chocolaty it is. A suggestion of licorice and molasses as well. A good way to kick off the afternoon.

A glance at the seasonal menu piques my interest. The second beer on the menu is named "Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse." Louisville's terroir is expressed through sourness? Apparently so. Cumberland Brews does not serve this beer the Berliner way, i.e., with syrup. Rather, it comes all by itself. A half-pint of the Berliner Weisse displays faint banana, apple, and musty notes in the nose. It's crisp, fizzy, wheaty, sweet, and sour all at once. Delightful.

The bartender has been at the hand pull frequently, doling out pints and half-pints of a dry-hopped, cask-conditioned porter. As I am finishing off my Berliner Weisse, I am dismayed to see that the cask is empty, or so I believe. An enterprising woman, the bartender grabs the pin from beneath the bar, tilting the tap toward the floor to coax the last two half-pints of porter from the pin. I am fortunate because she offers me one of those two half-pints free of charge. A toast to her. The creamy citrus/chocolate blend of the porter. Magnificent. My dismay returns as I realize that I should have ordered this beer earlier so I could have enjoyed a full pint. Terroir is often expressed kindly, but sometimes not as kindly as one might wish. The pin is forever empty of this particular beer.

The name at the top of the seasonal menu is "Two Brewers One Pint." I chuckle. If you don't understand the genesis of this beer's name, please, do not ask. Terroir is not only expressed in good beer, but through humor too, and that humor is not always classy. I learn from the bartender that this beer, which is a German Brown Ale, is a collaboration beer; BBC is Cumberland's partner in production. Two Brewers One Pint (or in my case, one half-pint): a malty nose with a faint whiff of smoke. Caramel flavors are coupled with a dry bitterness at the front of the tongue and a sweet finish at the back. Very nice.

My wife has finally caught up with me. The shopping treasure that she has unburied: Milli Vanilli earrings.

Only in Louisville is Milli Vanilli an expression of terroir.

KOTBR #37 - The Beer Diary of Geoffrey Crayon, gent.

A note from Jason: below are the notes from the latest KOTBR review as written by guest reviewer Geoffrey Crayon, gentleman. It is long. Very long. You may have to print it off and keep it as bedside or bathroom reading materials. If you are just wondering how the beers rated, the KOTBR ratings are listed at the end; just scroll down to find them. If you are up for a good read, then enjoy…

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After having traveled the world, including spending a great deal of time in England, I decided it was time to come home and re-acclimate myself to my homeland of America. Much has changed since I had left. With being away for such a long time, I traveled our beautiful country almost like a stranger, taking in the beautiful scenery with virgin eyes.

I had heard of a small town located on the old Cumberland Trail that had been laid out in a romantic style with winding roads, parks, large trees, and an eclectic mix of homes. It sounded to me a bit like a piece of an English garden on a large, Americanized scale. Plus, it had been named after a good friend of mine. A cohort in the literary business, who collected and edited the writings of Diedrich Knickerbocker.

How weird would it be for me to visit a place named after Washington Irving? What a notion!

I had communicated with a fellow named Michael, who beckons from Indianapolis, who suggested that we might meet in Irvington for drinks at a local café. He warned me to not let my first impressions of the town ruin my experience, that this place was certainly a diamond in the rough. He wrote:

“For the uninitiated, a drive through Irvington via Washington Street is slightly less than inviting. Sure, you've got a Starbucks and a few decent looking independent businesses, but to your average suburb dwelling white folk, there's nothing there that really reaches out and grabs you. If you've adventured a little more into Irvington you'll find just beyond that strip of storefront on Washington lies a beautiful little neighborhood with charming old houses, fountains, and people who really care about their community.”

He suggested we meet at a place called “The Legend”, named for one of the Washington’s most popular tales. I stepped inside to find a warm place packed with an inviting mixture of locals and travelers who have stopped on their way to other places along the National Road.

Indeed, Michael was accurate when he said, “The Legend Classic Irvington Cafe echoes the feel of Irvington - from the outside you might not expect anything grand, but a step through the door reveals a classy, inviting and beautiful little restaurant, with a warm staff who do a good job with everything from service to the beer menu.”

Ah, the selection of ales and porters! It served me well. It is odd how a cold beverage can take off the chill of a cold winter evening.

I selected a seat in proximity to where the publican was serving pint after pint of his intoxicating collection of spirits from behind his bar. On the wall, a quote from Washington was stenciled.


While the man whose name this town carries may have never stepped foot inside its limits, he surely would have found this place to be worthy of several pages in his latest collection of writings. Listening to the people hear talk about the town and others in the town, I found myself thinking that this isn’t too unlike Tarrytown. And that this town too contained many spirits, even outside of the liquid variety.

My host for the evening arrived, as well as many of his fellow distinguished intellectuals who choose to hold court around these parts while putting away pints. They frequently discuss the political and social winds that blow through these parts and are quick to share in their experiences.

Along with Michael was his lovely companion Gina. From a nearby neighborhood came Lady Kelly and her traveling partner Matthew. James, who is well versed in the letters of the law as well as the arts and literature. And finally, there was Jason, who hails from Irvington and speaks of it in a very boastful manner.

A strange fellow with an even stranger name was promised to join our company, but Shit McGee never showed.

Wanting to join in their eclectic group’s frivolities, I followed suit when they all ordered their first beer, a Winter White Ale from the brewery of Bell’s in Michigan. As the ale was poured, James entertained us with advice on wooing the young women of nearby Indianapolis:

Gentlemen, you're out on New Years Eve with a special lady. This is date number two. You're really into this girl after the first date, but of course, you're still getting to know her. You want to show her a memorable evening, so you've decided to take her to the most impressive restaurant in your cool Eastside Indianapolis 'hood—The Legend.

As you wait for a table, you sit down at the bar and take a look at the beverage menu. There's plenty of wine, and you're pretty sure she's going to order something red, maybe a Shiraz or a zinfandel. But your date—let's call her Kate (as in Kate Winslet)—looks at you and says, "I feel like having a beer."

As a guy who likes his beer, and good beer at that, you feel confident in your ability to give sterling advice in this situation.

"What kind of beer do you like?" you ask.

"Not the pissy stuff, but nothing too heavy, either," says Kate. "If they have Blue Moon, I'll take one of those."

You glance at the taps. Based upon Kate's preference, you see a beer that you think will do her one better than a Blue Moon. You motion to the bartender and point at the tap handle for the Bell's Winter White Ale.

"Two, please."
Kate raises an eyebrow as the bartender sets her pint in front of her.

"Hmmmm. Looks like bubbly grapefruit juice. So cloudy. I've never seen a beer like this."

"Don't worry. Just smell it," you say.

"Mmmmm. Smells spicy. Kind of like Blue Moon, but more intense."

"Give it a try," you suggest.

Kate raises the glass to her lips and takes a sip. Now she raises both eyebrows.

"Mmmmm. Spicy, orangey, a little banana in there. And smooth. I'll have to be careful so I don't drink this too fast."

Kate flashes you a big, bright smile. "You've got good taste," she says.

You like where the night seems to be headed.

The others listened and nodded as they sipped, sniffed, and studied the elixir. Matthew made some notes in his journal.


Lady Kelly contemplated the differences between this beer and wheat beers that she would consume during the days of summer. She called it, “a souped-up, spicy version of my favorite summer wheat beers. Not what I expected -- in a good way. Much better from the tap than in the bottle, and a good alternative for those who aren't fans of dark beers, yet still want something with a little holiday flair.”

Indeed, I agreed that it was a step up from the wheat based beers that I had consumed while traveling Europe. Often, they tasted of strong fruits and spices, much like drinking a variety of exotic fruits from tropical regions. This beer, however, is a much better reflection of our beloved country by blending the flavors in a much more appealing manner, making this a melting pot of wheat beers.

It has been mentioned that a bottled variety of this beer had been served at a local gathering of the city’s greatest artistic minds. Gina mentioned that, “as one of our sampling beers at the last Big Car event, I wasn't really impressed with this beer. However, after having it on tap at the Legend I think my views about it have changed somewhat. From the tap, it gives off a strong Belgian nose but it's balanced by a taste that is creamy with hints of orange.”

Michael, who was also at the art event, disagreed with Gina’s initial impressions. “It was my favorite of that night. But I continue my support of this beer on tap - the flavors come out a bit more. A light fruity lemon nose and cloudy lemonade appearance leads to an extremely drinkable and agreeable "Blue Moon with flavor" sort of taste. Your first thought might not be "winter" with this ale, but there's something about it that really fits the weather. I'd guess this one is palatable to just about anyone, and would probably make a nice holiday party beer.”

This beer was certainly making my holiday travels more enjoyable! But the evening was far from over.

There is a stout that Michael truly adores, and he has consumed many a bottle over the past several months. But when he heard that kegs of the brew had made it’s way to Irvington, he knew that a stop at the Legend was necessary.

“I was really excited to visit The Legend knowing that the Jefferson’s Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout from the Bluegrass Brewing Company was on tap,” he said. “I drink more of this beer at home than any other, and it never fails to be exactly the beer I want it to be.”

The next round was being poured, and Michael pointed out that it poured dark black with a creamy head “as thick as mashed potatoes.” He always had a way with words!


“A straight coffee nose with a hint of sweetness leads to a front of straight coffee (though that depends on who you ask). I never really get a bourbon taste out of this one, though there's a definite strong alcohol note. Despite the strong flavors, it's extremely drinkable, and hard to put down.” And for what it is worth, I never did see Michael put it down!

It was a beautiful drink, combining the best of both sides of the ocean: the stouts of England and the bourbons of America. And a perfect, chewy accompaniment for a cold winter night.



Once again, James stood up to continue his tale from earlier:

A week after your date with Kate, you roll into The Legend with some friends. It's guys' night out. Time for some dinner, followed by some pints at your favorite sports bar to catch some college basketball. But you need a before-dinner beer to get things kicked off.

"So how'd New Years Eve go?" asks one of your friends. We'll call him Seth (as in Seth Rogen).

"Pretty good," you reply.

"That's it? Just, 'Pretty good?'"

"Well, okay, check this out," you say. "Kate digs beer."

"So what?" says Seth. "Lots of girls dig beer."

"Yeah, but she digs good beer. She's a beer goddess."

Laughter.

"So what does this beer goddess like to drink?" asks Seth.

"Well, she had the Bells Winter White Ale, and she liked it, but she loved that one."

You point to the tap handle for the BBC Jefferson's Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout.

"That beer?" asks Seth. "Are you serious?"

"Oh yeah, just wait until you try it."

You motion to the bartender and point at the BBC tap handle again.

"Four, please." (You're ordering not only for you and Seth, but also for your other buddies Paul—as in Paul Rudd—and Steve—as in Steve Carrell.)

Seth lifts up his pint and eyes it.

"Man, this looks like dirty motor oil with a little bit of tan fuzz on top."

Laughter once again.

"Very vivid," you say. "Now take a whiff."

Seth complies.

"Holy crap, dude! That's seriously intense. Smells like baked brown sugar and black coffee."

"So what the hell are you waiting for? Taste it."

Seth complies.

"Oh, man. Now I know why they call this Bourbon Barrel Stout. This seriously hit me with a smack of bourbon."

Seth takes another sip, smacking his lips as he tries to get a good handle on the flavor of the beer.

"Okay, now this has mellowed out some. Tastes like coffee and brown sugar with a little bit of chocolate in it. Wicked good."

Seth sets his pint back on the bar.

"You know what? That Kate has good taste," he says.

"I know," you reply. "Good taste in beer and good taste in men."

Kelly, whose lady-like qualities may have been diminished by the intoxicating effect of the brews (but nevertheless is always a lady in my book), commented about the beer’s “initial bitchslap of earthy, past-its-prime espresso (if you've ever worked as a barista, you know this smell) followed by a kidney punch of bourbony sweetness and a Vulcan neck pinch of dark chocolate and licorice. Knowing that this is on tap just a stone's throw from my house could be a dangerous situation, indeed, as I had finished my glass almost before I knew it.”

I considered asking about this “Vulcan” chocolate and licorice, but figured it must have been a local purveyor of confections. Then I turned to Gina and inquired about her reaction to the stout.

“As one of Mike's favorites, I've had a lot of opportunities to try this at home and I've always liked it, but I never would have considered it a favorite. I always thought the Bourbon flavor came through too strong, it never left me wanting more than a few sips. But like the Winter White, this was a completely different beer on tap. The Bourbon Barrel Stout was wonderfully complex and the nose alone provided coffee, chocolate, fig, brown sugar, and molasses. The first taste was like having a really great espresso with a shot of bourbon. As it warmed, the bourbon flavor came through more and the coffee flavor a bit less but the beer remained smooth and enjoyable.”

I turned to Jason to inquire his opinions of the matter, but he seemed to be lost in his own mind, most likely wondering why his good acquaintance Shit McGee hadn’t arrived.

No matter, as I’m sure that the two of them will show up here at the Legend time and time again. I came to understand how a town like this would be so devotedly loved by all, despite any of the seedier establishments and residents that might stake claim along the old National Road.

As my travels continue, I’m certain that I will stop and stay at pubs and inns that attempt to pull together an establishment that is much like what purveyor John has created. But no where will you find the same collection of characters, the same collection of stories, the same collection of beers, as you do here at The Legend in Irvington. You could very easily write a whole collection of stories about this place.

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Beer Ratings (out of five mugs):
Bells’ Winter White
Kelly: 3.75 mugs
Matt: 3.62 mugs
Jim: 4.00 mugs
Gina: 3.45 mugs
Mike: 3.75 mugs
Jason: 3.875 mugs
KOTBR Average: 3.74 mugs

BBC Jefferson’s Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout
Kelly: 4.5 mugs
Matt: 4.87 mugs
Jim: 4.75 mugs
Gina: 4.95 mugs
Mike: 5.00 mugs
Jason: 4.875 mugs
KOTBR Average: 4.82 mugs

Almost too many beers to remember - Brew-Ha-Ha 2007

On Saturday, Chris, Mike, Gina, and I all experienced the Phoenix Theatre's Brew-Ha-Ha for the first time. This annual beer festival, which is in its twelfth year, is a fundraiser for the Phoenix. From the looks of it, the event brings the theatre a truckload of money because the 700th block of North Park Ave., which is where the festival was held, was nearly full of people from sidewalk-to-sidewalk.

Brew-Ha-Ha brings out most of Indiana's brewpubs and microbreweries to give Indianapolis a taste of their offerings. Most brewers had two to four beers available for sampling. And most of the brewers were very generous with their sampling pours. We initially intended to sample as much as we could from each brewer, but after only one round through the sampling tables, I was so full and my taste buds were so shot that I decided to gracefully bow out of the festivities. Chris, Mike, and Gina soon called it a day as well.

In general, I thought that the event was well-planned and well-run. The only issue, which was surprising, was the insufficient number of port-a-potties. There were four port-a-johns for all attendees, which made the wait to use the facilities excruciating for some. I hope the theatre has better foresight next year.

Brew-Ha-Ha also included some interesting entertainment that involved sausage balloons, but I will let one of my comrades discuss this because I don't want to monopolize the discussion of the event, and, frankly, I was left nearly speechless by what I saw.

So, on to the beer. I estimate that I sampled around 15 beers. Some were fantastic, some were good, and some were fair. I can't say that I had a bad beer. Rather than speaking on all 15 (frankly, I can't remember all 15), I'll discuss the three best beers that I sampled, in reverse order.

3. Jefferson's Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout - Bluegrass Brewing Company (Louisville, KY). This dark, chocolaty stout is aged in bourbon barrels provided to BBC by the makers of Jefferson's Reserve Bourbon. As one might expect, this beer has a nose heavy on bourbon and alcohol. However, the taste is surprisingly smooth, with the bourbon flavor serving as a hint rather than a sledgehammer. The beer has a nice, silky mouthfeel and a pleasant aftertaste. This beer served as a great contrast to the heavily hopped beers that I'd been gravitating toward during the course of the afternoon. At 8% ABV, the Bourbon Barrel Stout is for sipping, not quaffing. A 4 mug rating.

2. Loose Cannon Hop3 Ale - Clipper City Brewing Company (Baltimore, MD). Hop3, which Clipper City describes as its "interpretation of American IPA," is part of the brewery's Heavy Seas line, which is a group of craft beers targeted at beer geeks like us. As you might have surmised by the name of the beer, it is heavily hopped (triple-hopped, to be precise). It pours with a generous head and a coppery-gold color. The hop aroma is huge and citrusy. The taste has a lively fruitiness and is slightly sweet. Hop3 finishes with a bit of dryness, which is not unexpected for an IPA. As I was sipping on this, I imagined pairing it with some grilled salmon and roasted zucchini on a hot July day. This is another high alcohol beer at 7.25% ABV. Hop3 gets a 4 mug rating from me. Thanks to Cavalier Distributing for featuring Clipper City's Heavy Seas beers at Brew-Ha-Ha. Clipper City certainly deserves a wider beer-drinking audience here in the Hoosier State.

1. Hoptimus - New Albanian Brewing Company (New Albany, IN). Leave it to an Indiana brewery to provide the best of the best of the day. This was the first beer for Chris and me at the first sampling table, and wow, what a way to start! Hoptimus is an imperial IPA with a copper-gold hue. The nose is very citrusy, primarily with grapefruit notes. Like the Hop3, it has a crisp and hoppy flavor, but the finish on this beer is different from the Hop3's finish. Unlike other IPA's, which tend to have a dry finish, this one had a finish that was a bit sugary. The ABV is 9%. As a consequence, the wonderful flavor of this beer might pose a danger to those, like me, who might be tempted to finish a glass quickly. As my grandmother used to say, "Go easy, son." Hoptimus earns a 4.5 mug rating.

After making the circuit of the beer tables at Brew-Ha-Ha, we returned to get some more suds from New Albanian (I was willing to wedge just a little more beer in the tummy at this point, mostly because the Hoptimus was so memorable) only to find that they'd left because they had underestimated the amount of beer they needed. Word has it that they ran out after only an hour and fifteen minutes and went through 15 gallons of beer. Gina tried a cherry imperial stout from New Albanian, which I had a sip of; that, too, was an excellent offering. Consequently, I'm sure that New Albanian will make its way on our list of out-of-town breweries to visit.